Srinagar and the Mughal Gardens

Having mapped out the broad geographical divide of Jammu and Kashmir in our introduction, it is time to zoom in on the very heart of the Kashmir Valley: Srinagar.

Srinagar is the summer capital of the Union Territory of Jammu and Kashmir. Situated on the banks of the Jhelum River, it is a city defined by water. If you want to understand Srinagar, you have to understand that it is not a city built next to lakes and rivers; it is a city built into them.

In this chapter, we are going to walk through the primary landmarks of Srinagar city. We will explore its famous lakes, decode the architecture of the magnificent Mughal Gardens, and climb the hills that host its most revered historical and religious sites. By the end of this reading, you will have a clear mental map of the city and the historical context behind every major monument.

The Waterways: Dal Lake and Nigeen Lake

When people think of Srinagar, the first image that comes to mind is usually a calm lake reflecting snow-capped peaks, dotted with wooden boats. This is Dal Lake, often called the "Jewel in the crown of Kashmir" or Srinagar's "Jewel."

Dal Lake: A Floating City

Dal Lake is not just a body of water; it is a thriving, breathing ecosystem and a self-contained floating city. Covering an area of roughly 18 square kilometres, it is part of a natural wetland that includes floating gardens, residential areas, and commercial markets.

The lake is traditionally divided into four main basins:

1. 1Gagribal (the lower lake)
2. 2Lokut Dal (the small lake)
3. 3Bod Dal (the big lake)
4. 4Nigeen (often considered a separate lake, which we will discuss below)

One of the most fascinating features of Dal Lake is its floating gardens.

Right in the middle of the Lokut Dal basin sits an island called Char Chinar (also known as Rupa Lank). As the name suggests, it is a small island marked by four majestic Chinar trees at its corners. It is a classic photographic spot and a favourite stop for tourists taking boat rides.

Nigeen Lake: The Quieter Sibling

Connected to Dal Lake via a narrow strait known as Nallah Amir Khan is Nigeen Lake (sometimes spelled Nagin). While Dal Lake is bustling, vibrant, and full of activity, Nigeen Lake is its quieter, more serene sibling.

Nigeen is flanked by willow and poplar trees and is generally deeper and less crowded than Dal Lake. Because of its tranquil environment, many tourists who prefer peace and quiet choose to stay on the houseboats moored in Nigeen Lake rather than the busy shores of Dal.

Life on the Water: Houseboats and Shikaras

You cannot study the lakes of Srinagar without understanding the two types of vessels that define them: the Houseboat and the Shikara. They are entirely different in purpose, history, and design.

The Kashmiri Houseboat

A houseboat in Srinagar is exactly what it sounds like—a house built on a boat. However, unlike houseboats in places like Kerala which cruise along the backwaters, Kashmiri houseboats are mostly stationary. They are permanently moored along the edges of Dal and Nigeen lakes.

Why were they built? The history of the Kashmiri houseboat is a fascinating workaround to a legal restriction. During the late 19th century, the Dogra Maharajas ruled Jammu and Kashmir. They had a strict law: no outsider (including the British) was allowed to purchase land in the Kashmir Valley.

The British officials and tourists, desperate to escape the scorching heat of the Indian plains during the summer, found a loophole. If they couldn't build on land, they would build on water. They commissioned local craftsmen to build luxurious floating homes.

Today, these houseboats are floating palaces made of fragrant cedar wood. They feature intricate wood carvings, traditional Kashmiri carpets, and a unique ceiling design called Khatamband (a geometric pattern made by fitting small pieces of walnut or cedar wood together without the use of nails).

The Shikara

If the houseboat is a floating hotel, the Shikara is the floating taxi.

Shikaras are the lifeblood of Dal Lake. They are used for everything:

• Transportation: Ferrying tourists from the shore to their houseboats.
• Commerce: Vendors row their shikaras up to houseboats to sell flowers, saffron, papier-mâché handicrafts, and even hot kebabs.
• Agriculture: Farmers use them to transport vegetables from the floating gardens.

The Mughal Gardens: Paradise on Earth

Moving away from the water and onto the eastern shores of Dal Lake, we find the magnificent Mughal Gardens.

When the Mughal Emperors conquered Kashmir in the late 16th century, they were mesmerized by its beauty. Coming from the dusty, hot plains of Agra and Delhi, they viewed Kashmir as the ultimate summer retreat. To enhance this natural beauty, they built a series of terraced gardens overlooking Dal Lake.

All Mughal Gardens in Srinagar follow a specific architectural style borrowed from Persia, known as the Charbagh layout.

In Kashmir, because the land is hilly, the Mughals adapted the flat Charbagh layout into terraced gardens. The water flows down from the mountains, cascading over the terraces in a central channel called a Shah Nahar, creating small waterfalls and filling reflective pools.

Let's look at the three most important Mughal Gardens in Srinagar. You must know who built them and what makes each unique.

1. Shalimar Bagh: The Abode of Love

Shalimar Bagh is the largest and most famous of the Mughal Gardens in Srinagar.

• Built by: Emperor Jahangir in 1619.
• Built for: His beloved wife, Empress Nur Jahan.
• Layout: It is divided into three distinct terraces.
• The lowest terrace was the Diwan-e-Aam (public audience hall).
• The middle terrace was the Diwan-e-Khas (private audience hall for the Emperor and his nobles).
• The highest and most beautiful terrace was the Zenana (the private quarters for the Empress and royal ladies), guarded by black marble pavilions.

2. Nishat Bagh: The Garden of Joy

Located just a few kilometres south of Shalimar Bagh, Nishat Bagh is arguably the most visually stunning because it offers a sweeping, unobstructed view of Dal Lake and the Pir Panjal mountain range.

• Built by: Asif Khan (the elder brother of Nur Jahan and father-in-law of Shah Jahan) in 1633.
• Layout: Nishat Bagh is famous for having 12 terraces, which were designed to represent the 12 signs of the zodiac. It is the largest terraced garden in Kashmir.
• Trivia: Legend has it that Emperor Shah Jahan was so jealous of Nishat Bagh's beauty that he temporarily cut off its water supply, hoping Asif Khan would gift the garden to him.

3. Chashma Shahi: The Royal Spring

Chashma Shahi is the smallest of the three main Mughal Gardens, but it holds a very special distinction.

• Built by: Ali Mardan Khan (a governor) in 1632, on the orders of Emperor Shah Jahan.
• Unique Feature: The garden is built around a natural freshwater spring. The water from this spring is famous for its purity and is believed to have medicinal properties that aid digestion.
• Layout: It has only three terraces, but its compact size and the backdrop of the Zabarwan mountains make it incredibly picturesque.

Historical and Religious Landmarks

Srinagar is a city of immense spiritual and historical depth. The skyline of the city is dominated by two prominent hills, each crowned with a site of great significance. Furthermore, the shores of Dal Lake host one of the most revered shrines in the region.

1. Shankaracharya Temple (Takht-e-Suleiman)

If you look up from Dal Lake towards the Zabarwan mountain range, you will see a stone temple perched at the very top of a forested hill. This is the Shankaracharya Temple.

• The Hill: The hill is historically known as Takht-e-Suleiman (Throne of Solomon) or Gopadari Hill. It rises about 1,000 feet above the valley floor, offering a breathtaking panoramic view of Srinagar city and Dal Lake.
• The Temple: Dedicated to Lord Shiva, it is considered the oldest shrine in the Kashmir Valley. The original structure is believed to date back to 200 BC, built by Jaluka, the son of Emperor Ashoka.
• The Name: The temple gets its current name from the great philosopher and saint, Adi Shankaracharya, who is believed to have visited Kashmir in the 8th century and meditated at this exact spot.
• Architecture: The temple rests on a solid octagonal rock base. To reach the main shrine, devotees and tourists must climb a steep flight of 243 stone steps.

2. Hari Parbat Fort (Koh-e-Maran)

On the opposite side of the city lies another prominent hill, known as Koh-e-Maran. Crowning this hill is the imposing Hari Parbat Fort.

• The Fortifications: The first fortifications around this hill were built by the Mughal Emperor Akbar in 1590. He built the outer wall of the fort, which includes two famous gates that still stand today: the Kathi Darwaza and the Sangeen Darwaza.
• The Current Fort: The actual fort that sits on top of the hill today was built much later, in 1808, by Atta Mohammed Khan, an Afghan governor ruling Kashmir at the time.
• A Symbol of Secularism: Hari Parbat is a beautiful representation of Kashmir's multi-faith heritage. The hill is considered sacred by three major religions:

1. 1Hinduism: The western slope houses the Sharika Peeth, a temple dedicated to Goddess Jagadamba Sharika Bhagwati, the presiding deity of Srinagar.
2. 2Islam: The southern side features the shrine of the revered Sufi saint, Sheikh Hamza Makhdoom (popularly known as Makhdoom Sahib).
3. 3Sikhism: At the southern base of the hill lies Gurdwara Chhatti Patshahi, which commemorates the visit of the sixth Sikh Guru, Guru Hargobind Singh Ji.

3. The Hazratbal Shrine

Located on the western banks of Dal Lake, the Hazratbal Shrine is one of the holiest Islamic shrines in Jammu and Kashmir.

• The Relic: The shrine's immense importance comes from the fact that it houses the Moi-e-Muqqadas—a sacred hair believed to belong to the Prophet Muhammad. The relic is displayed to the public only on specific religious occasions.
• Architecture: Visually, Hazratbal stands out from almost every other historical building in Srinagar. While traditional Kashmiri shrines (like the Shah-e-Hamdan shrine) are built using wood and feature pagoda-like tiered roofs, Hazratbal is built of pristine white marble and features a massive dome and a single minaret. Its reflection shimmering in the waters of Dal Lake is one of Srinagar's most iconic sights.
• History: The site was originally a garden and a pleasure house built by Sadiq Khan (a Mughal subedar) during Shah Jahan's reign. Shah Jahan later ordered it to be converted into a prayer house. The current white marble structure was constructed much later, completed in the 1970s.

Mapping the City: A Mental Walkthrough

To truly master this topic, you need to understand how these places relate to each other spatially. Imagine you are standing on a houseboat in the middle of Dal Lake, facing east towards the mountains.

• Beneath you: The waters of Dal Lake, with Shikaras gliding by and floating gardens (Rad) in the distance.
• To your left (North): The waters narrow and connect to the quieter Nigeen Lake. On the western shore to your left sits the white marble dome of the Hazratbal Shrine.
• Straight ahead (East): The Zabarwan mountains rise up. Lined up along the base of these mountains, facing the lake, are the Mughal Gardens. From north to south, you would pass Shalimar Bagh, then Nishat Bagh, and finally Chashma Shahi tucked slightly higher up.
• To your right (South): Rising sharply above the lake is the Takht-e-Suleiman hill, crowned by the ancient stone Shankaracharya Temple.
• Behind you (West): Across the city, the Koh-e-Maran hill rises, topped by the stone walls of the Hari Parbat Fort, watching over the old city of Srinagar.

By visualizing this map, you transform a list of isolated facts into a connected, logical landscape. This makes recalling the details under exam pressure significantly easier.

Quick Revision

Before you close this chapter, review these high-yield points. If you can recall the context for each of these, you are fully prepared for any question on this topic.

• Dal Lake: Known as the "Jewel of Srinagar," famous for its floating gardens called Rad and the Char Chinar island.
• Nigeen Lake: The quieter, deeper lake connected to Dal Lake via Nallah Amir Khan.
• Houseboats: Stationary wooden floating homes, originally built because Dogra laws prevented outsiders from buying land.
• Shikaras: Small, flat-bottomed wooden boats used for transport, commerce, and tourism on the lakes.
• Charbagh: The Persian architectural style of the Mughal Gardens, featuring terraced layouts and central water channels.
• Shalimar Bagh: Built by Jahangir in 1619 for Nur Jahan. The largest Mughal garden.
• Nishat Bagh: Built by Asif Khan in 1633. Known as the "Garden of Joy" with 12 terraces representing the zodiac.
• Chashma Shahi: Built by Ali Mardan Khan (under Shah Jahan) in 1632. Famous for its medicinal natural spring.
• Shankaracharya Temple: Located on Takht-e-Suleiman (Gopadari Hill). Dedicated to Lord Shiva; the oldest shrine in the valley.
• Hari Parbat Fort: Located on Koh-e-Maran hill. Outer wall built by Akbar; current fort by Atta Mohammed Khan. A site of Hindu, Muslim, and Sikh veneration.
• Hazratbal Shrine: White marble shrine on Dal Lake housing the Moi-e-Muqqadas (sacred relic of the Prophet).